Estimated cost of Hayrack and troll conversion...

Tim

2010-01-31 12:05:49

Hi,

I have inquired to several different places, but what is your experience with the cost of converting a 44-foot wood vessel to power troll? I need to cut-in a cockpit( it used to be a troller, so the deck just needs to be cut and configured) , purchase and run the electronics to the pit (ComNav Auto pilot with remote, throttle, sounder screen, computer screen, etc.), get a basic hayrack built, purchase three-spool gurdies, etc. If anyone has some suggestions out there I would appreciate it. Also, if any of you are willing to add some details that would be greatly appreciated as well. I am trying to add up all the numbers and don't want to forget a major expenditure I may be over-looking. Thanks you all.

Salty

2010-01-31 14:19:48

I don't know about all the cost but all you need is one computer screen with your sounder data plugged in. Sure is nice to get rid of all the other stuff, sounder, GPS, etc.

Good shelter deck is in the $10,000 dollar range.

Tim

2010-01-31 14:34:30

Hi Salty,

Thank you very much for your input. It has already helped clear things up a bit. Beyond those details, what I wonder about the most is how to get the throttle controls back there, they are cables now. Or, maybe go with some MicroCommmander set-up...I honestly forget what most folks are using now or what I have used in the past.

Katlian

2010-01-31 16:39:15

Tim,

Eric (formerly of the lab) sells the electric module for throttle. It is under $1000. Then you run two wires and $15 switches. I had that system on my previous boat and thought it was far superior to morse controls.

I would budget $25,000 for the conversion. And have another $15,000 available as backup. I just did that scale of project last year. It is amazing how fat the money evaporated.

Have you purchased your dreamboat yet. I know you have been looking for a while.

slr

Tim

2010-01-31 19:45:49

Hi,

Thanks for the advice. No, I still have not found a boat but have looked at a lot and spoken to owners about even more. Thinking about the conversion idea, but balking on it until I get a clear idea of the cost and involvement. Your advice has helped. Just not seeing anything that suits my needs on the market.

RUSSELL

2010-02-09 03:20:10

Hi Tim ,

I know your concerns I am just finishing the exact project your planning and it sounds like you have thought it out pretty well. I intsalled the comnav 1001 with pump and fluxgate compass it was $ 4600, full Garmin Package with plotter, radar, sounder and second station monitor $6500 . I built the washington style hayrack with a full cover stretching over the back of the pit $ 1100 in Material, Luckily I had welding shop at my disposal. I used a under body truck box to house the monitor and comnav controls it worked great. The project just like all of them seem to run over budget by about 20%, Erics suggestion of using a computer monitor sounds a lot cheaper than a full plotter setup in the rear. I will probaly be fishing alone this season and having the abilty to push buttons and view the radar and split screens without having to run in the house seems like it will help with efficiency of motion. Good luck ~~[attachment=0]~~016.JPG[/attachment]

Salty

2010-02-09 15:09:51

Good idea on the truck box. Is that stainless? How much did that cost?

Be sure to monitor those troll wires as they go by the box from your gurdy to your block. I ended up gluing pieces of plastic to an aluminum box I had in almost the same set-up before my new shelter deck. Any slack in the wires and they will ground out to the aluminum box and screw up your electrical field. I used this basic set up for 20 years. Worked great in a lot of ways but the new set up is a step up.

Also, be sure to bond your new hayrack into your overall bonding system. I actually had it bonded both into the rudder and to the engine.

~~[attachment=1]~~IMG_5837.JPG[/attachment]
~~[attachment=0]~~IMG_5826.JPG[/attachment]

Salty

2010-02-09 15:15:09

Here is a picture of the old setup with my neice, Annika .
~~[attachment=0]~~100_0176.JPG[/attachment]

RUSSELL

2010-02-10 00:31:30

Good evening ,

Hey Salty , That box is polished alum it ran 250. I figured by the time I got the material and the door hardware and my time this was the best alternative. Thanks for the advice on the wires grounding out, The first set of blocks is about 8 inches out from the edge of the spools - so hopefully no problems, I have never grounded my davits on previous boats . It always seemed to contaminate the voltage readings unless my blocks were new and washed down with soap and water. It seemed as soon as they got salt water on them it was giving a different reading , I have seen guys isolate there blocks from there davits with plastic but I haven't tried that yet. I can proably assume some of the problems were also related to hull potential, I haven't figured all the electrical mysteries yet but were working on it. When do we get to see a deckshot of the slush hold configuration ? I split the deck into three hatches that should hold six bags, I haven't figured out how to get bags into the forward holds under the house. Maybe a skylight.

Salty

2010-02-10 01:28:37

I will look to see what I have as far as pictures of the tanks. Not usually taking those pictures.

Salty

2010-02-10 01:50:53

~~[attachment=1]~~IMG_5822.JPG[/attachment]

Here is the basic set-up. Sarah has since removed the rust stain with FSR Fiberglass Stain Remover, which if you have not discovered it yet, is the best for removing stains.

You can see the basic configuration here. Three back holds which hold about 2500 lbs. Two saddle tanks which hold about 1200 apiece in two bags each. The main hold holds basically four bags of about 800 lbs. apiece. We can go two deep in the main hold for another three thousand lbs. for a theoretical total of a little over 11,000 lbs.

Here is the look of the back three toward the cockpit.

~~[attachment=0]~~IMG_5823.JPG[/attachment]

Hope this helps.

Salty

2010-02-10 01:57:42

In the above configuration if you look at the upper left you may note that when it is slow we can conk the salmon thoroughly in the water and then slip it over the rail right into the cleaning trough. Removes one lift getting us down to two.

1. From the water to the trough;

2. From the trough to the slush tank.

Way more ergonomic than my first set up:

1. From the water to the deck;

2. From the deck to the trough;

3. From the trough to the holding checker;

4. From the holding checker to the slaughter house;

5. From the slaughter house to the icing checker;

6. From the icing checker to the slaughter house;

7. From the slaughter house to the unloading tote.

Working on pole extensions all day today and tomorrow.

RUSSELL

2010-02-11 00:37:20

Salty , Thanks for the pics . Removing your rear tanks really frees up a lot of space and capacity. I need to keep my fuel tanks for now in the rear for the trip north . When you stack your bags in the main hold are you also hanging outer liners ? Like the cleaning troughs I just finished a some what similar set up. I held mine about 14 inches above the deck to save the lowerback . Efficiency of motion really comes into play on the good days. Even if they are few and far between . Thanks

Sorry about getting away from original thread.

Tim

2010-02-24 17:58:22

Thank you all who have offered advice and items. I am still heavily pondering the conversion idea and will make a decision very soon. Thanks again all.