RUSSELL
2009-12-30 04:22:31
I am planning on building A new set of poles for a 36ft glass. probaly 3piece. In hopes of not spending a bunch money building the wrong poles. Could any one share there expeirences and pipe sizes that worked well. Iam not sure if schedule 80 is over board. Thanks
carojae
2009-12-30 20:05:21
Russel,
I am no expert but I have built some trolling poles for my boat.
My poles were also built in 3 pieces - 3", 2.5" and a 2" x 39 feet for my 39 foot boat; each pole inserted about 4' in each other. I made to top piece the shorter of all the 3 pipes. I am sure the pipe is series 6000 and schedule 40 (schedule 80 being over-kill and too heavy to lift). All three were first bolted together with 5/16 stainless bolts (2 in each union section alternating 90 degress so not to weaken poles). I also took a circular saw and cut a strip through the first pipe of the bottom 2 sections and then rewelded them together for extra strength (a 10" cut). You can cut a hole near the bottom and insert a 3/4 aluminum pipe, weld it in place (perpendicular) and use this to attach your pole to the pole holder. I used a 1/2 stainless through bolt to go through the holder and the pole.
If you use a forward aluminum stay (mine was 1 1/2 pipe) then you will have to do the same as far as going all the way through here too. A regular pole clamp will work if you are going to just use cable.
So you will also want a couple of strong haul-up/stabbie tabs. These I learned must be a strap of aluminum that goes clear through the aluminum pipes and welded on both sides - strong for obvious reason's. I took a 2.5" x 1/4" x by about 6" long aluminum and drew a outline of it where it would go through. Back when I did mine I used a drill and a jigsaw and was able to cut through both pipes and accomplish this so I could push the aluminum strip through both pipes. I then put a heavy weld bead on both sides of the tab and also ran another bolt through all three at the tab location just to be extra safe.
I then welded surface tabs on locations where I wanted my taglines to attach - will have to be your calculations because I am not sure what you will use up there; chains and spring, no springs, some like a stainless pipe so as to attach a bell and so on.
I love my aluminum poles. You don't need a back stay and you never have to worry about them rotting.... :) Most all aluminum poles will need a stainless cable on the back side so it doesn't break if soemthing grabs you from behind and also keeps the pole somewhat steady from extra wobble.
Good luck.....
Jim
RUSSELL
2009-12-31 07:03:16
Thanks Jim ,
Your post should definitely get me going in the right direction. The new boat has a weak set of alum poles that best serve as an example of what not to do. I have reinforced them with extra forward stays but am still not happy with em. one already has a pretty good wang in it, Idont think its worth the hassle of having a busted pole during the middle of the season.
Danny Boy
2010-01-01 01:55:58
Muni in San Francisco uses tapered fiberglass poles on the buses for the electric overhead wire system. Nice, they go from about 5 inches to 2 inches in about 30'. I have been trying to get a pair for awhile. I believe they are made by Kiepe electric Germany. Last for years... and real flexible.
LeBasque
2010-01-01 16:50:10
Great idea,
But how heavy is fiberglass vs aluminium?
Happy New Year
davidtettleton
2010-02-09 21:41:08
"greensticks" for tuna trolling are nice and long and tapered and breakdown inside itself if needed. Probably be good for someone wanting fiberlass. Made for two or three 60 pounders to hang on it! easy.