kenboe
2009-02-16 03:29:58
Does anyone have suggestions about techniques and/or available capability for outboards to run gurdie hydraulics? I don't want a little Honda running to run a pump on deck. Been there and don't like it. Any experience would be of interest to me.
longfinner
2009-02-16 06:06:02
Assuming your outboards are charging a battery bank, use an electric motor to drive the hydraulic pump for the gurdies. You should be able to locate the motors in a dry secured area of your boat.
Hope this helps.
kenboe
2009-02-16 12:39:33
Thank you Longfinner. I had not considered a electric system to run the hydraulics. I think a 4-6 GPH pump will be enough so it is feasible. Thanks again.
kenboe
doryman
2009-02-17 01:26:23
Are you going to be using this in a small boat for power trolling? We have been running outboard powered gurdies since the late 60's down here in Oregon in our commercial dory boats. I have this setup on my own boat and it is 1000% better than using a small Honda auxilary, i.e. no noise and vibration. Basically the system is simple. First to consider is the type of outboard. Most and outboard with a top mounted flywheel can be used. Honda outboards will NOT work!!! The flywheel is on the bottom. Personally I would go with a Suzuki, if you don't already have a motor. I run one, and it has 9 seasons and 1000's of hours with no problems. What you need to do is have a machinist build an adapter that bolts onto the center of the flywheel using existing holes. Then you bolt a Lovejoy coupler to the adapter. We use the small Vickers sliding vane type of pumps. You will need a flat steel plate for the pump to bolt to and a pin welded to the bottom of the plate. A fabricator can make you a bracket with a tube that the pin will slide into. That bracket can be bolted to existing holes on the engine block. Put the other side of the Lovejoy coupler onto the input shaft of the Vickers pump. Cut two holes in the cowling, one for the Lovejoy coupler to stick through, the other for the pipe. Alignment is absolutely critical for the relationship of the pump to the flywheel. There can be no side loading or vibration. If it does it will wipe out the main bearings in the engine (many a doryman found this out the hard way in the mid 70's). Now the bracket holding the pump should fit down on top of the motor, one end with the pin sliding into the pipe, the other is the Lovejoy coupler making connection. You will need about a three gallon tank and filter of course on the return side. I run about a 1 gpm ring in my pump. Depenging on setup you may need a bigger ring. You will want a flow control valve plumbed in right at the tank after the last working motor.
Make a bracket for the pump to sit in when not in use, such as running. I use on oar lock and just drop the alignment pin right into it. Make your suction and pressure hoses pleny long to make installation and removal from the motor easy. For waterproofing the cowling I use some abs plastic pipe and a test cap for over the coupler and a piece of rubber innertube around the standpipe.
I hope this helps, feel free to ask any questions about the system, I have been working with them a long time.
kenboe
2009-02-28 03:09:00
Doryman, I kind of "got it" but I recently saw an outboard on a Duckworth with the contraption that you described. I stopped to examine it and tooks some photos. It is exactly as you described. The pump was laying in the boat and the lovejoy was protruding from the top of the motor which by the way was a Suzuki 90. There was a small stainless hydraulic tank and everything was set up to run double gurdies. Now I understand what you were describing to me. Thank you very much, I appreciate you willingness to write that long description. It actually looks fairly simple.
-kenboe-
brushape
2009-03-25 00:42:56
Sorry I am getting into this discussion on the late side. I talked to gent who had cannon custom wind some heavy duty down riggers so he didn't have to worry about hydraulics & related problems (leaks!) no need to butcher your outboard.